I like to work fast, and when I get some momentum going, I just keep going. People who learned with water soluable paints also can get the results they expect and are happy with. Some examples: - On paint dilution, one video showed how different thinners can make a significant difference in the results. - On the painting step, I made a mess of a gloss clear coat but found out why. ... Acrylics are not really any easier to clean up, I end up using lacquer thinner anyway to clean my airbrush. I had only used my airbrush for one project before this year but advanced to "intermediate" skier (airbrusher) this year. Dude that fruity smell Tamiya has always makes me smile. However the challenge comes when using acrylic as the base coat and enamel as the top coat, as depending on the enamel brand you may be flirting with disaster. Acrylics are vastly easier to clean up and since their drying time is so low they're very convenient. If you’re looking for a couple more options to play with, you can try these cheeky alternatives: Pastels: Excellent for tinting other liquids. manage your account online and more! Enamel paints for models are generally excellent paints. The subreddit dedicated to the hobby of plastic model kit building and painting. The viscosity of the enamel paint to begin with may vary depending on the manufacturer you have chosen, but in most cases the paint must be thinned before use in an airbrush. What about wait time between coats on a complete paint job? While I will continue to use various types and brands of paint, there are none with which I'm familiar, and in current production, which I would unreservedly recommend. Swap tips and techniques, show your latest builds/WIPs, post kit reviews and discuss the latest kits! I have begun airbrushing acrylics because they are easier to come by, and they aren't as bad as they used to be 20+ years ago but I would still take enamel any day over them. If you hand brush, Acrylic is the way. Another is that my inexpensive (but adequate), externally vented paint booth may not be strictly compliant regarding flammability concerns because of the motor design. I heard good things about Tamiya, but the only thing is I can't seem to find them in kits and you have to buy them individually, which would be really expensive. I also regularly use Tamiya acrylics. I use both Acrylic and Solvent based paint in my airbrush and both work very good. I would recommend that if you're spraying solvent-based paints, wear a two-stage respirator and spray either in a spray booth vented to the outdoors or spray outdoors (and wear the respirator). There are more similarities than differences between airbrush-ready paints and regular acrylic model paints. Today we are going to see what is enamel paints and how you can use them! Acrylics are vastly easier to clean up and since their drying time is so low they're very convenient. Welcome to another video! So keep your enamels, use them. Wear a mask and/or spray in a ventilated area. The issues are pointed out above. Yeah it seems like Tamiya is unanimous across the board with everyone here. Experimentation will yeild better results through time. The heat from my hands can damage acrylic paint that seems dry to the touch, but it is not yet fully cured. Can you even get paints with these solvents in them anymore? Enterchanging with Norfolk Southern. Mixing the right consistency is vital for the airbrush and paint to work together. Acrylics can be thinned fairly easy, enamels, IMO take a little more practice at thinning for airbrush use. May 4, 2017 - Embedded thumbnail for Enamel vs. Acrylic Paint for Scale Modeling. Enamel Paints vs. Acrylic Paints. Thinner for airbrushing. However, I still tend to mix a lot in the airbrush cup, especially since I use gravity-feed airbrushes. Acrylic is the faster, more popular option these days, but enamel is definitely not without its merits. My stock consist of Lacquer and Enamel, Lacquer for painting, Enamel for detailing and washing. As soon as I finish shooting a color, flush the airbrush by shooting a mixture of water and alcohol. Been using Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively for about 3 years now with their proprietary X20A thinner. I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps. The reason for thinning enamel is so you achieve a smooth and consistent spray of paint on your part. Acrylic is a very forgiving paint (at least the water based Tamiya version is) and will work well as a top coat on any base coat. May 4, 2017 - Embedded thumbnail for Enamel vs. Acrylic Paint for Scale Modeling. Then take the airbrush & 2 soaking parts to the sink for warm soap & water & Windex (as needed) cleaning with a toothbrush & pipe cleaner. I find tip dry a real problem with them, and I also like to airbrush with highly thinned paint, and there's a limit to how much you can thin these types of acrylics before performance really falls apart with runs, color separation and so on. I have the right to remain silent. Do any of these paints use either of these two solvents? Acrylics are not "safer" in that regard. If you feel confident after a while, try enamels. I will probably use Testors Modelmaster paints as my jumping off point and see how it goes from there. Acrylics in my humble opinion are great for this purpose. With fast-drying PollyScale, this was, except for changing bottles on the airbrush, a non-stop operation. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the modelmakers community. Tamiya with their lacquer thinner is great (I don't have acess to Gunze anymore). Then transfer them to the airbrush. Now, years later, I have intense allergies to all paint type solvents. EPA regulations notwithstanding, the amount of harmful chemicals released by airbrushing modellers is miniscule, but if you're one of those airbrushers, do yourself a favour and wear a two stage respirator - that miniscule amount going directly into your lungs can prove dangerous with repeated exposure. On the other hand I've heard enamels give better results, are easier to airbrush, and give a tougher finish. Awesome, thanks for the info. Acrylic paint dries faster than enamel. I thin the Solvent paint (TCP) with Acetone and the manufacturers recommended thinner for Acrylics. You can find it on the magazine's website.Regards, Volker. I tried a HF airbrush when my Badger was in the shop for a lifetime warranty issue and I didn't like it. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983. Next thing I know I feel my thumb stuck to a model, and then when I remove it I see I've left a very noticeable fingerprint in the finish that will have to be sanded out. We feature beginner and advanced help on all model railroading scales, including layout track plans, model railroad product reviews, model train news, and model railroad forums. Like you, I recently started using an airbrush. Totally agree, except I use Tamiya's lacquer thinner over the x20a. Airbrush needles are going to determine how fine are broad your airbrush lines will be. I heard it'll cause a reaction and mess up the paint. Short compatibility matrix (thanks to Masataka Narita) The L E A (Lacquer Enamel Acrylic) Rule: Lacquers, enamels & acrylics can safety cover base lacquers. To my knowledge, I don’t know if there is an airbrush ready enamel-based primer designed for miniatures. Gunze/Tamiya acrylics SUCK for brush painting, while I've heard Vallejo brush paints very, very well. Thank you to everyone for the detailed advice! I mix this 50/50 with distilled water (bonus tip - never thin with drinking water or tap water!) Southland Industrial Railway or S.I.R for short. Both airbrush-ready paints and regular model paints use water-based acrylic polymer formulas as the foundation for the paint. But I don't have to worry. On the other hand I've heard enamels give … It’s recommended for hand painting (slower drying allows for additional time for the paint to self level and hide brush strokes). I said my main reason for using acrylics is easy cleanup - cleaning an airbrush with nothing more harsh than Windex is a great thing, but I give up what I consider to be the main advantage of enamel paints - durability. Good points on safety. I still have a fairly good supply of Pollyscale in most of the colours I use, and a lot of other brands specific to certain end uses or particular projects, but have also acquired a fair amount of Scalecoat as the eventual replacement for Pollyscale. I also learned with solvent based paints. A Class A line located in a personal fantasy world of semi-plausible nonsense on Tuesday, August 3rd, 1954. When it sprays clear, I am done cleaning. What are the pros and cons and what acrylics do you prefer? I'm going to be buying my first airbrush soon, and I would like to know what folks recommend regarding the type of paints I should start with. I think it is far more likely the Floquil line was outdated and not selling well. Also, just to confirm, you can't paint enamel over acrylic can you? Then reassemble & spray some denatured alcohol & store the airbrush. Any links to recommendations of paint packs would be much appreciated. Sorry, I know there are solvent based paints still available, I was referring specifically to toluene and xylene. - On cleanup, my research also helped a lot. Without thinning, clogging occurs. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me. Scrape some of the pastel into a fine powder, and add it to water for use as a detail enhancer. Dunno, why I waited this long to get on the airbrush train . The airbrush in my case is used to weather my models. They dry quickly, adhere nicely to plastic, and cover very well. Then, from a siphon jar of clean or near clean Windex, spray some into the receiver, cover the tip to backflush, then exhaust again. Use acrylic paint unless you have a special need for durability. I find them very easy to spray, but they are not very durable and certain colors - flat black in particular, tend to dry with a chalky sort of finish that is very unpleasant and difficult to handle. I was blasting a large amount of paint, from too far away, and the paint was drying to an extent before landing. I spent years doing a lot of airbrushing with the old Floquil back in the 60's and 70's. I thin all my Tamiya, and the odd other brand I use anyway. Fear an Ignorant Man more than a Lion- Turkish proverb. Acrylics are vastly more popular for airbrushing than enamels, even though technically enamels are somewhat easier to airbrush (since they won't drytip). One is minimizing exposure to hydrocarbon solvents, including on cleanup. I also had trouble getting a nice gloss clear coat (before decals). MR subscribers, check out the new All-Time Digital Archives, https://www.testors.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/Testors/ebook/MRH-Acrylic-painting-guide-post-Floquil-Portrait.ashx. I researched lots of prior threads here and a fair number of YouTube videos and that got me over the hump. I'm sure this topic has been rehashed to death, but to be honest a few searches didn't yield the kind of information I'm looking for. Lacquer paints such as Alclads give stunning finishes too, but both lacquers and enamels require more careful applications. Having developed asthma I won't use solvent based paints anymore. Vallejo Air is amazing but you will have to thin some of them. A proprerly fitted full faced respirator with the correct cartridges is probably the best way to ensure you won't be breathing the harmful vapors. Click on one or more categories below to refine your search results. Acrylic modelling paint is the standard paint of choice for most model enthusiasts. Dilutes color without loss of adhesion, resistance and consistency. No ventilation, no paint booth, not anything except my lungs sucking the vapors in. I tried using rattle cans outside, but even that was not going to work out well enough. Enamel paint tends to turn yellow over time in indoor areas where there is not enough sunlight. I focused on Testors Model Master and found success. Airbrush acrylic paint is the most commonly used medium preferred by artists. The down side to solvent based paints are the hazardous vapors. People are still hoarding it today. As someone working with models and miniatures, you will require an airbrush system that works well with enamel and acrylic paints. Do yourself a big favor and don't use solvent based paints without the best protection you can. I started painting, back in the mid-'50s, using a brush and Floquil paints, and have used most brands of model paint since then, both with brush and airbrush. Model Railroader is the world's largest magazine on model trains and model railroad layouts. What do you recommend thinning it with? So I use the Model Master thinner (Testors Aztek). I'll always advise new airbrushers to start with acrylics. Prompt cleaning keeps the airbrushes working good. Used both successfully (more or less) and i think I preffer solvent based more. Acrylic paint is also available in a variety of finishes or sheens ranging from glossy to flat. The smaller the needle the finer the lines you will be able to achieve but this is only to an extent as the effect will diminish the smaller you go. I normally use Testors Dullcote in the rattle can for sealing. I focused on Testors Model Master and found success. If I could brush paint with, say, Citadel acrylics (the Warhammer paint), and airbrush with Gunze, I would be very happy. Great stuff to airbrush. I will put a paper towel over the nose of the airbrush and backflush, then change the flush in the jar. Airbrush Acrylic Medium Airbrush acrylic medium can work great for thinning your airbrush paint. Albeit the paints weren't the cause.Regards, Volker. Base coat acrylics can only be covered by more acrylics. Even with a mask on, the chemicals from the enamels seem so harsh. Acrylic-based paints can be brushed on, sprayed on, and can even be found in paint markers. Enamel paints are more toxic than acrylic paints, but aren’t as bad as lacquer paints. I've largely given up using enamels. I'm going to go ahead and make the switch once I finish up my current model. If I’m doing a lot of painting using several colors in one batch I have a five port manifold so that I can use multiple airbrushes and not have to swap paint bottles. Acrylic medium is commonly much thinner than acrylic paint by itself. Oil Based/Enamel Paint. I believe that today's better than average train store, has a worse selection of paints than 30 years ago. I have no experience with them, however. An example of this would be that of an illustrator’s airbrush, which is designed for use with ink, and therefore would not handle paint well. I used Vallejo Air (technically I used AK Interactive's paint, but it's just Vallejo Air made for them in custom colors) on my last build and liked the way it sprayed overall, although it really liked to drytip--I had to clean the nozzle out after every couple minutes. I still use a booth, and wear a mask, even with acrylic's, as I have asthma. Weathering my freight cars takes care of any flaking caused by handling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQmB6yvOJeE. Basically a paint booth is necessary to vent the harmful vapors assuming you can vent enough away to remove the risk of breathing them. When i started again a month ago, I was just brush painting. In my opinion, the hands-down best-of-the-lot was Floquil's PollyScale - not predecessor Polly-S and not the more recent versions of PollyScale, and definitely not the final ready-to-airbrush version (useless for brush work). Regardless of the type of paint I use in my airbrush, I always clean it with lacquer thinner only, and likewise for brushes (natural bristle). Fine needles also are more prone to clogging with thicker paint mixes like acrylic paints and some enamel paints. to use as thinner instead of buying each brands own thinner. What works best for you depends on your airbrushing skill set. I cannot put masking tape on acrylic paint that hasn't dried at least overnight, or else paint will get pulled up when the tape is removed. Experienced folks, with both types, have learned & optimized what works for them w/o excessive time and effort but for me it was quite a learning experience on the acrylics, primarily using Testors Model Master and/or Badger Modelflex I had acquired. Enamels are better to airbrush, they just are. In many cases, the color pigment saturation, durability, and overall final result on a miniature are also the same. Testors / testors / ACRYLIC PAINTS To refine this list of products, return to the grid view . I plan to use the airbrush primarily for weathering, but I also have a few unpainted die cast, brass, and resin models I would like to paint. From my understanding, at the very basics, acrylic is water based and enamel is oil based. Just add about 60ml to about 300-400ml paint in your dipping pot and the paint flows way better and does not dry as quickly – less … I don't really use "pure" acrylics (Vallejo, Lifecolor, AK, AMMO etc) for airbrushing. If brushing use a quality brush (eg: sable), or if airbrushing, a quality tool with the mix thinned to suit the the tool and specific to … However, most of the questions I get from modelers deal with the difficulties of shooting acrylic paints. Every few months I may take the airbrush apart and clean it with laquer thinner. Does it make a difference if I'm asking for weathering or painting? I prefer acrylics for airbrushing simply because the cleanup is easier afterwards, and since the drying time is shortened I can paint several colors in one sitting. Others, you're better off with a designated booth with a decent respirator and a dust-free storage area. Some tips with acrylic's, they make a acrylic airbrush medium. Protect your central nervous and reproductive systems! The paint fumes issue isn't going to go away if you switch to acrylics. If you have airbrush, Lacquer is the best choice. Acrylic paint doesn’t turn yellow over time. Enamels & acrylics can cover enamels (but not lacquers!). My understanding is acrylics are easier to clean up, safer, and dry faster allowing quicker layering of colors. What this is, is thin acrylic medium, that can be used in place of thinner. I mostly do modern jets, so grey, and all they greys I've tried needed some thinner. What RioGrande5761 says it dead on. Then spray again from a 2nd clean Windex siphon bottle. They are great for use in an airbrush. The carcinogenic warnings on tamiya paints are there for a reason. When weathering how long will I need to wait before changing colors or applying another layer with enamels?
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